I Custodi’s cellar master is long-time Etna guru Salvo Foti, and his touch is one of a bianchista (white wine lover) prizing elegance, tension, and keeping the pristine volcanic spice found in these wines. Mario and Salvo have decided to release both red and whites only after extended elevage; it’s another sign of the dedication of this winery to natural and fine wines, a shared mantra also of PortoVino.